Headed Home

If all goes according to plan, I should be able to fly back to the United States today. It's been a lovely Christmas holiday in London, but I wasn't planning to spend this much time or money here. During my three bonus days I've taken advantage of the Boxing Day sales, ridden the London Eye, heard a Boxing Day Baroque Concert, and toured the city. Last night I attended a lovely service of music and readings for the Christmas season at St. Paul's Cathedral - a wonderful reminder that Christmas is not just one day.

Merry Christmas from London, and I highly recommend this trip to anyone looking for a new and meaningful way to celebrate the birth of Jesus.

Evening Ride on the London Eye

The tube strike was over today, and so I decided to make the most of another day in London by seeing the city from the best possible vantage point. After a visit to the Saint Paul's gift shop and a liesurely stroll through town, I took the Central Line and Northern Line to Waterloo and joined another queue - this one for the London Eye, the 445-foot ferris wheel on the banks of the Thames River.

A lot of people had the same idea, because the park was full of happy tourists and there was about an hour wait to get onto the Eye. About 15 people at a time ride in the capsules, and my group began their flight shortly after 3:00 p.m. The sun set over London during the one-hour ride, so I had a magnificent view of London at twilight.

Boxing Day Madness in London!

Once again, the best laid plans often don't come to pass, and we get even more interesting adventures as a result. A blizzard that's headed for the New York City area forced the cancellation of all of today's flights from London to New York. That means I'm "stuck" here in London for another day or two :-)

I realized from the beginning that this was to be a short, whirl-wind trip, so this change has given me some time to relax, go shopping, walk through London, and try some new restaurants. A great way to unwind after such an intense Christmas experience. The problem is that the London Subway Drivers staged a one-day strike today over a pay dispute, so the Underground and many trains were not running. Boxing Day is the Day After Christmas, and the sales and discounts are as huge in London as the are in the states. Trafalgar Square and Picadilly Circus were absolutely mobbed with shoppers, and the buses were stuffed full of people who would normally ride the tube - like me. Because today is Boxing Day, the cabbies charge a holiday surcharge, but I was lucky enough to find a driver who just asked the regular fare to come back to the hotel after a long afternoon of supporting the British economy through shopping.

My favorite teas come from Whittard of Chelsea, which has several shops around Picadilly Circus, so I stocked up. I also manage to find a few London Christmas ornaments, and an additional converter so I can charge my phone and laptop at the same time. Then I spent some time walking around Trafalgar Square, where the fountains had FROZEN, and took the bus to Westminster Station to walk around the Abbey and Parliament. A lot of people were out enjoying the day and continuing their Christmas celebrations.

Happy Boxing Day from London!

Christmas at Saint Paul's Cathedral

Sometimes the best laid plans don't always work out, but often the results are better than the original plan. Melinda and I were hoping to attend the Midnight Eucharist at Saint Paul's Cathedral, but we didn't have enough time to travel back to London from Cambridge, check into our hotel and join the queue in enough time to be admitted. A quick change of plans came together, and we decided to spend the rest of the evening savoring the experience at King's College, and attend the Christmas Day Evensong at Saint Paul's instead. We had a wonderful late dinner at Strada, right across the street from Saint Pauls's, and watched the queue being admitted to the service. The back to the Saint Paul's Club Quarters for rum and some much needed sleep!

Christmas morning included late coffee and bacon sandwiches at Casa di Caffe near Saint Paul's and a walk through the city. We crossed the Millennium Bridge and walked along the Thames, and then returned to the cathedral for Christmas Day Festal Evensong.

It was a beautiful service, but a very different atmosphere from reverence we experienced in Cambridge in Cambridge. Saint Paul's was filled with tourists, many of which treated the evensong like a sightseeing experience rather than a worship service. The Cathredral Choir was wonderful, singing the Magnificat and Nunc Dimittis from George Dyson's Evening Service in D and Halleluja from Handel's Messiah.

After the service, a lot of folks began taking flash pictures and video, despite the prohibition. I have to adnmit that I took advantage of the situation to sneak in a few non-flash pictures before leaving the cathedral, which was beautifully decorated for Christmas. A wonderful keepsake of a place I dearly love!

Christmas Dinner was Turkish food at Sofra in Covent Garden - spicy chicken and rice, with sticky toffee pudding for dessert. This is a great way to celebrate the holidays!

Merry Christmas!!

A Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols at King's College, Cambridge

Today was the most AMAZING experience I think I may have ever had. Attending the Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols at King's College, Cambridge.a defining moment of faith. People from all over the world came together to celebrate the birth of Jesus with awe, reverence, humility, joy, laughter and cameraderie. New friendships were formed and old friendships were made stronger. And God was worshipped in a way that moved many to tears.

The day began for me at 4:30 am GMT with a quick cup of tea and a brisk walk down Pembroke Street to join the queue at the King's College gate. ("Queue" is the word the British and Europeans use for "line," as in "queue up" or "line up," and is pronouced like KEW or CUE). Some very dedicated attendees had camped out at the gate the night before, to be sure they were first in the queue! The local coffee shops on King's Parade began opening at 6:00, so there were places to get a cup of coffee and warm up briefly. Many people brought chairs, and I was thankful for my little camping stool which fit nicely in my suitcase. A couple of local student chipped the ice off the wall so they could sit down occasionally.

The gates were opened at 7:30 and we were led in by the doormen. We moved to the Cam River side of the campus, which was out of the wind. It was still quite cold so the hand warmers were also appreciated. The College Coffee Shop opened at 8 and we were able to leave the queue for short periods of time to get hot drinks and food, and warm up in the student lounge. A couple local students made snowmen. The Mayor of Cambridge and the Dean of King's College visited with everyone about midday, and then the choral scholars came outside to perform some entertaining holiday melodies such as "Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer" and "We Wish You a Merry Christmas."

At 1:30 the Chapel doors were opened and we were led inside, a group at a time. Because Melinda and I - and our new friends Jeannette and Chun Yi - had arrived so early, we were able to sit in the choir, with a good view of the choir and celebrants. The organ played from 2:00 - 3:00 while everyone was seated.

Then at a few minutes past 3:00, the magic began. 12-year old George Gibson sang the opening verse of "Once in Royal David's City" and time seemed to stop. I've been listening to the live broadcast for years, but it does not begin to compare to being present in that magnificent accoustic and hearing the soaring boy soprano.The choir processed into the stalls and then 16 fidgety little boys were glued to Stephen Cleobury's every nuance, as he led them through carols and hymns. The service included Jan Sandstrom's haunting setting of "Lo How a Rose E're Blooming" and a new carol commissioned for the service by Einojuhani Rautavaara.

I have dreamed of attending this service for many years, and it was worth every cold, shivering moment of waiting in the queue for 8 hours. I would go again in a heart beat! Next, Christmas services at Saint Paul's Cathedral in London.

Christmas Eve Preparations

I arrived at Heathrow Airport in London this morning with my travelling companion Melinda, after a crowded but relatively uneventful flight. We immediately took the train to Cambridge to prepare for tomorrow's Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols at King's College.

The Centre was bustling with shoppers making last minute gift purchases and tourists taking in the sights and sounds of Cambridge, King's College is actually closed this week for rehearsals and sound checks. The BBC portable uplink is parked on King's Parade (the main thoroughfare through the Centre), and the Chapel is closed to the public. So we did some sight-seeing and shopping, and had lunch at Auntie's Tea Shoppe. Auntie's is a MUST during a visit to Cambridge.

Tomorrow morning, Christmas Eve, we will queue up at 5:00 a.m. GMT, in order to get a seat in the Quire for the service. The tea shops and restaurants on King's Parade will open fairly early, and the gift shops will be open as well, to attract the several hundred cold congregants waiting in the queue. King's College will also reopen early in the morning to offer food services and toilets. I packed a camping chair and the cold weather gear I wear for tailgating at Buffalo Bills football games.

For many years, the custom has been to choose the boy chorister who will sing the opening verse of "Once in Royal David's City" just moments before the start of the service. But according to an article in today's paper, 12-year-old George Gibson has already been chosen to sing. We'll hear him tomorrow, a few minutes past 15:00 GMT.

Christmas in England

One of the big items on my "bucket list" has been Attend the Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols at Kings College, Cambridge on Christmas Eve. Well, this year is the year. My home church, Third Presbyterian in Rochester, has been undergoing renovations for the past 10 months. The sanctuary has been closed and our services were held at Incarnate Word Lutheran Church. The date of our return to our own facilities changed a few times over the summer, so it seemed that this would be a good year to celebrate the Christmas holidays in Great Britain.

My plans are to attend the Christmas Eve service in Cambridge and then return to London for the midnight service at Saint Paul's Cathedral and the Christmas Day Evensong at Westminster Abbey.

Things were going well. My cards were mailed, my shopping was done, hotel and dinner reservations were made. Then winter weather struck London and closed Heathrow Airport earlier this week. I've been obsessively watching the weather channel and BBC, hoping that my plans of a life time aren't ruined by a few inches of snow. Fortunately the runways have all been reopened, and my flight is on schedule. I'm waiting to board and start the adventure!

In Memory of Richard Gladwell

Public Radio lost a gentle voice last week when Richard Gladwell, host of With Heart and Voice, died after a mercifully brief struggle with brain cancer. He passed away peacefully at home, with his wife, his granddaughter and his hospice nurse at his side.

Richard was born in London in 1920, and came to the United States in 1955. He helped to found public radio station WXXI in Rochester NY, which signed on the air on December 23, 1974. With Heart and Voice began a few weeks later, and is heard on more than 100 public radio stations across the United States. The weekly program of sacred choral music is a mainstay for music loves around the world, with regular Internet listeners from as far away as South Africa and China.

Throughout his life, Richard loved the Anglican choral tradition, and as an adult, he felt called to share God's music with the world. He will be missed, and remembered with love and respect.

Praise God with heart and voice for the life of Richard Gladwell!

Choral Evensong

In 2001 and again in 2005, I had the privilege of singing in Great Britain with the Chancel Choir of Third Presbyterian Church. In 2001 we served as choir-in-residence at Rochester Cathedral in Kent, England. When we returned to England in 2005 we served as choir-in-residence at St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. It was an awesome experience to make music in these beautiful and historic places of worship. We sang daily evensong in cathedrals where these services have been sung for a millennium.

This Sunday afternoon, the Chancel Choir will share this experience with the community, when we sing a Service of Choral Evensong at 4:00 p.m. The service music will include Richard Shephard’s Preces and Responses, O Taste and See by Ralph Vaughan Williams, Sir Charles Villiers Stanford’s Magnificat and Nunc Dimittis in G, and Faire is the Heaven by William H. Harris. The service of Evensong will be followed by a traditional English tea, featuring cucumber sandwiches, scones, cookies and, of course, real English tea.

It’s an ecumenical and cultural event, open to the public. If you’ve never experienced evensong, I highly recommend coming to Third Presbyterian on Sunday afternoon. The church is located on East Avenue at Meigs Street in Rochester, and here is a link to a map:

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=East+Avenue+at+Meigs+Street,+Rochester,+NY&ie=UTF8&ll=43.155465,-77.590749&spn=0.00706,0.013819&t=h&z=16&iwloc=A

I hope to see you there!