Headed Home

If all goes according to plan, I should be able to fly back to the United States today. It's been a lovely Christmas holiday in London, but I wasn't planning to spend this much time or money here. During my three bonus days I've taken advantage of the Boxing Day sales, ridden the London Eye, heard a Boxing Day Baroque Concert, and toured the city. Last night I attended a lovely service of music and readings for the Christmas season at St. Paul's Cathedral - a wonderful reminder that Christmas is not just one day.

Merry Christmas from London, and I highly recommend this trip to anyone looking for a new and meaningful way to celebrate the birth of Jesus.

Evening Ride on the London Eye

The tube strike was over today, and so I decided to make the most of another day in London by seeing the city from the best possible vantage point. After a visit to the Saint Paul's gift shop and a liesurely stroll through town, I took the Central Line and Northern Line to Waterloo and joined another queue - this one for the London Eye, the 445-foot ferris wheel on the banks of the Thames River.

A lot of people had the same idea, because the park was full of happy tourists and there was about an hour wait to get onto the Eye. About 15 people at a time ride in the capsules, and my group began their flight shortly after 3:00 p.m. The sun set over London during the one-hour ride, so I had a magnificent view of London at twilight.

Boxing Day Madness in London!

Once again, the best laid plans often don't come to pass, and we get even more interesting adventures as a result. A blizzard that's headed for the New York City area forced the cancellation of all of today's flights from London to New York. That means I'm "stuck" here in London for another day or two :-)

I realized from the beginning that this was to be a short, whirl-wind trip, so this change has given me some time to relax, go shopping, walk through London, and try some new restaurants. A great way to unwind after such an intense Christmas experience. The problem is that the London Subway Drivers staged a one-day strike today over a pay dispute, so the Underground and many trains were not running. Boxing Day is the Day After Christmas, and the sales and discounts are as huge in London as the are in the states. Trafalgar Square and Picadilly Circus were absolutely mobbed with shoppers, and the buses were stuffed full of people who would normally ride the tube - like me. Because today is Boxing Day, the cabbies charge a holiday surcharge, but I was lucky enough to find a driver who just asked the regular fare to come back to the hotel after a long afternoon of supporting the British economy through shopping.

My favorite teas come from Whittard of Chelsea, which has several shops around Picadilly Circus, so I stocked up. I also manage to find a few London Christmas ornaments, and an additional converter so I can charge my phone and laptop at the same time. Then I spent some time walking around Trafalgar Square, where the fountains had FROZEN, and took the bus to Westminster Station to walk around the Abbey and Parliament. A lot of people were out enjoying the day and continuing their Christmas celebrations.

Happy Boxing Day from London!

Christmas at Saint Paul's Cathedral

Sometimes the best laid plans don't always work out, but often the results are better than the original plan. Melinda and I were hoping to attend the Midnight Eucharist at Saint Paul's Cathedral, but we didn't have enough time to travel back to London from Cambridge, check into our hotel and join the queue in enough time to be admitted. A quick change of plans came together, and we decided to spend the rest of the evening savoring the experience at King's College, and attend the Christmas Day Evensong at Saint Paul's instead. We had a wonderful late dinner at Strada, right across the street from Saint Pauls's, and watched the queue being admitted to the service. The back to the Saint Paul's Club Quarters for rum and some much needed sleep!

Christmas morning included late coffee and bacon sandwiches at Casa di Caffe near Saint Paul's and a walk through the city. We crossed the Millennium Bridge and walked along the Thames, and then returned to the cathedral for Christmas Day Festal Evensong.

It was a beautiful service, but a very different atmosphere from reverence we experienced in Cambridge in Cambridge. Saint Paul's was filled with tourists, many of which treated the evensong like a sightseeing experience rather than a worship service. The Cathredral Choir was wonderful, singing the Magnificat and Nunc Dimittis from George Dyson's Evening Service in D and Halleluja from Handel's Messiah.

After the service, a lot of folks began taking flash pictures and video, despite the prohibition. I have to adnmit that I took advantage of the situation to sneak in a few non-flash pictures before leaving the cathedral, which was beautifully decorated for Christmas. A wonderful keepsake of a place I dearly love!

Christmas Dinner was Turkish food at Sofra in Covent Garden - spicy chicken and rice, with sticky toffee pudding for dessert. This is a great way to celebrate the holidays!

Merry Christmas!!

A Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols at King's College, Cambridge

Today was the most AMAZING experience I think I may have ever had. Attending the Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols at King's College, Cambridge.a defining moment of faith. People from all over the world came together to celebrate the birth of Jesus with awe, reverence, humility, joy, laughter and cameraderie. New friendships were formed and old friendships were made stronger. And God was worshipped in a way that moved many to tears.

The day began for me at 4:30 am GMT with a quick cup of tea and a brisk walk down Pembroke Street to join the queue at the King's College gate. ("Queue" is the word the British and Europeans use for "line," as in "queue up" or "line up," and is pronouced like KEW or CUE). Some very dedicated attendees had camped out at the gate the night before, to be sure they were first in the queue! The local coffee shops on King's Parade began opening at 6:00, so there were places to get a cup of coffee and warm up briefly. Many people brought chairs, and I was thankful for my little camping stool which fit nicely in my suitcase. A couple of local student chipped the ice off the wall so they could sit down occasionally.

The gates were opened at 7:30 and we were led in by the doormen. We moved to the Cam River side of the campus, which was out of the wind. It was still quite cold so the hand warmers were also appreciated. The College Coffee Shop opened at 8 and we were able to leave the queue for short periods of time to get hot drinks and food, and warm up in the student lounge. A couple local students made snowmen. The Mayor of Cambridge and the Dean of King's College visited with everyone about midday, and then the choral scholars came outside to perform some entertaining holiday melodies such as "Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer" and "We Wish You a Merry Christmas."

At 1:30 the Chapel doors were opened and we were led inside, a group at a time. Because Melinda and I - and our new friends Jeannette and Chun Yi - had arrived so early, we were able to sit in the choir, with a good view of the choir and celebrants. The organ played from 2:00 - 3:00 while everyone was seated.

Then at a few minutes past 3:00, the magic began. 12-year old George Gibson sang the opening verse of "Once in Royal David's City" and time seemed to stop. I've been listening to the live broadcast for years, but it does not begin to compare to being present in that magnificent accoustic and hearing the soaring boy soprano.The choir processed into the stalls and then 16 fidgety little boys were glued to Stephen Cleobury's every nuance, as he led them through carols and hymns. The service included Jan Sandstrom's haunting setting of "Lo How a Rose E're Blooming" and a new carol commissioned for the service by Einojuhani Rautavaara.

I have dreamed of attending this service for many years, and it was worth every cold, shivering moment of waiting in the queue for 8 hours. I would go again in a heart beat! Next, Christmas services at Saint Paul's Cathedral in London.

Christmas Eve Preparations

I arrived at Heathrow Airport in London this morning with my travelling companion Melinda, after a crowded but relatively uneventful flight. We immediately took the train to Cambridge to prepare for tomorrow's Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols at King's College.

The Centre was bustling with shoppers making last minute gift purchases and tourists taking in the sights and sounds of Cambridge, King's College is actually closed this week for rehearsals and sound checks. The BBC portable uplink is parked on King's Parade (the main thoroughfare through the Centre), and the Chapel is closed to the public. So we did some sight-seeing and shopping, and had lunch at Auntie's Tea Shoppe. Auntie's is a MUST during a visit to Cambridge.

Tomorrow morning, Christmas Eve, we will queue up at 5:00 a.m. GMT, in order to get a seat in the Quire for the service. The tea shops and restaurants on King's Parade will open fairly early, and the gift shops will be open as well, to attract the several hundred cold congregants waiting in the queue. King's College will also reopen early in the morning to offer food services and toilets. I packed a camping chair and the cold weather gear I wear for tailgating at Buffalo Bills football games.

For many years, the custom has been to choose the boy chorister who will sing the opening verse of "Once in Royal David's City" just moments before the start of the service. But according to an article in today's paper, 12-year-old George Gibson has already been chosen to sing. We'll hear him tomorrow, a few minutes past 15:00 GMT.

Christmas in England

One of the big items on my "bucket list" has been Attend the Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols at Kings College, Cambridge on Christmas Eve. Well, this year is the year. My home church, Third Presbyterian in Rochester, has been undergoing renovations for the past 10 months. The sanctuary has been closed and our services were held at Incarnate Word Lutheran Church. The date of our return to our own facilities changed a few times over the summer, so it seemed that this would be a good year to celebrate the Christmas holidays in Great Britain.

My plans are to attend the Christmas Eve service in Cambridge and then return to London for the midnight service at Saint Paul's Cathedral and the Christmas Day Evensong at Westminster Abbey.

Things were going well. My cards were mailed, my shopping was done, hotel and dinner reservations were made. Then winter weather struck London and closed Heathrow Airport earlier this week. I've been obsessively watching the weather channel and BBC, hoping that my plans of a life time aren't ruined by a few inches of snow. Fortunately the runways have all been reopened, and my flight is on schedule. I'm waiting to board and start the adventure!

The Royal Engagement, SNL style

First of all, the links I posted a couple of weeks ago expired, but you can find the video on thedailyshow.com. Search for NPR.

This Christmas my bucket list will get shorter. I've always wanted to experience the Festival of LEssons and Carols at Kings College, Cambridge. So I'm flying to England on December 22. Watch this blog for updates, as well as Facebook and Twitter (JEFisher100). And with my upcoming travels in mind, please enjoy Saturday Night Live's take on the Engagement of William and Kate:

http://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-live/video/visiting-the-queen/1261515/

First Harvest

Today was the first real harvest from the backyard garden. The tomatoes are finally starting to ripen and the peppers are multiplying daily.

I planted roma tomatoes and beefsteak tomatoes; the romas are coming in first. They are the best for salsa and sauce. Beefsteaks are for salads and tomato sandwiches.

Maya and Chico are very interested in what's coming in from the garden... sniffing and looking, but not eating! I read somewhere that cats can't really taste the heat of the chili pepper, but I'm not going to let them have and "samples."

This weekend will be the start of salsa making season. Yummy!

A Visit to Niagara Falls

It's been hot and humid in Upstate New York for weeks. Everyone's lawn is going brown and dormant, and gardens are getting really stressed from the heat and lack of rain. I've been watering my tomato/pepper patch twice a day, so things are fine in the garden. But the warm sunny weather made today perfect for a visit to Niagara Falls with my sister Anne and her daughter Megan, who are visiting from Wisconsin. Here are some scenes from our ride on the Maid of the Mist and our climb to the Cave of the Winds.

New Growth in the Garden

It's only been about 6 weeks since the garden was planted, but it feels like forever. I've been watching little yellow flowers blooming on the tomato vines, but nothing more until this evening, when the first tiny little tomatoes made their grand appearance!

Upon further inspection of the garden, I also discovered that the mums are starting to bloom.

It's a little early for mums here in Rochester, but everything is coming up early this year because of the early spring. I hope this doesn't mean a blizzard on Halloween!

Happy Fourth of July!

It's Independence Day weekend here in the United States, when we remember and give thanks for our freedoms, including religion, speech and the press. We often mark the day with parades, picnics and fireworks, and I will be doing that in just a few hours. Because July 4th falls on a Sunday this year, our Federal Holiday is tomorrow, Monday, July 5th, giving us a nice long summer weekend to do the things we enjoy.

This weekend, like most so far this summer, includes time in the garden. There's an old saying that corn should be "knee high by the Fourth of July," but this year it's almost shoulder height, thanks to the early spring and abundant rains.

My little garden has no corn, but already there are quite a few poblano peppers starting ripen,and the tomatoes can't be far behind. The pepper plants all have multiple fruits, and the tomato vines are covered with yellow flowers.

I've also finished the first harvest of the lavender patch, and now the dried herbs are inside of pillows and sachets, making wonderfully fragrant gifts for upcoming birthdays and holidays.

I'm thankful that I have the freedom to do this kind of gardening for the fun of it.

Whether you're celebrating the American holiday this weekend, or enjoying your own national days this summer (or winter Down Under), take time to be thankful and smell the lavender!

Everything is coming in early!

What a strange spring and summer we're having this year. Spring came about a month early - 2010 was the first year without ANY measurable snow in March in the history of measuring snow. And spring actually had arrived by March 21 this year, two months ahead of when it usually springs up here in Rochester. By late May we were experiencing days in the 70s and 80s, and now we are only 7 days into the official summer season and I'm already harvesting herbs! This weekend's crop was lavender. I spent the day clipping, washing and drying, and my house smells wonderful. Next weekend the dried lavender will be sewn into sachets - gifts from the garden. This seasonal cycle has been quite lovely, but I hope it doesn't mean a short summer or an early winter. Warm weather is so much more fun than shoveling snow!

Earthquake

A magnitude-5.5 earthquake struck at the Ontario-Quebec border region of Canada at 1:40 p.m. EDT today, shaking homes and businesses from Toronto to Rochester, NY and was also felt in parts of Michigan and Vermont.

At the time of the earthquake I was 100 miles south of Rochester, in Ithaca, NY, where all was still and peaceful. Visitors to Taughannock Falls climbed the gorge and snapped pictures, completely unaware of what the earth was doing a few hours to the north.

Of course, after experiencing a 7.5 in California in 1999, I might not have noticed what happened today!

Happy Summer!

It’s the first day of summer and I’m already making plans for harvesting, drying and canning.

The poblano plants, which went into the ground just a month ago, already have little tiny peppers on them, and the jalapeno and cayenne pepper plants are flowering too. The tomato plants, which went in a few days later have lots and lots of big yellow flowers.

The cilantro has gotten so bushy I’ve already cut it back and processed it for use in salsa later this summer. The lavender bed in the front of the house is spilling out of its boundaries, so it’s been cut back and dried for use in sachets. Gifts from the garden!!

Summer Gardening

Summer will arrive tomorrow - Monday, June 21st at 7:28am Eastern Daylight time. The pepper and tomato plants just went into the garden about 4 weeks ago, but they seem to think that harvest season is coming soon. This strange, early, warm spring has already coaxed flowers from the tomato plants and a few tiny pepper buds.

Last year I began making the salsa (which became Christmas gifts) in early September. This year the process could begin as early as Fourth of July weekend! I'll work on getting some photos posted over the next few weeks to show just how freakishly early the garden is coming in.

I'm NOT complaining about the weather. As a friend here in Rochester once said: "You don't have to shovel heat!"

Happy Solstice!

Happy Easter!

Christus resurrexit!
Christus is opgestaan!
Cristo ha resucitado!
Tá Críost éirithe!
Khristos voskres!
Christus ist auferstanden!
Le Christ est ressuscité!
Kristus het opgestaan!
Cristo è risorto!
Le Christ est ressuscité!
Χριστός Ανέστη! (Christos Anesti!)
Christ is Risen! Alleluia!

Happy Saint Patrick's Day

Just wanted to share a pint with everyone!

My Pictures from Guatemala

I'm home in Rochester, where winter is winding down. If you're tired of winter, or just need a look at some exotic color, take a look at my photos from Antigua, Chichicatenango, Panajachel and Tikal!

Tikal Guatemala

The ancient Mayan city of Tikal was rediscovered in the mid 1800s. In the century and a half that has followed, the temples and other buildings of this complex of ruins have slowly been uncovered to reveal a fascinating and mysterious society that helped to shape our modern calendar.

Walking through the ruins and learning about the complexities of this ancient civilization reminds me of the final episodes of the new Battlestar Galactica (yes, I am a nerd), that explored the origins of humanity and our history of destroying and recreating ourselves according to the plan of God.

The first thing I want to do when I get home is watch the movie “2012,” and then I want to sleep for a week.

Guatemala is a beautiful, fascinating country, filled with mystery and spirituality. I guarantee a visit to Guate will change you in ways you can’t imagine!

Market Day in Chichicatenango

Indigenous culture meets modern technology in the Highlands of Guatemala.

High in the mountains, and sometimes isolated from the rest of Guatemala, Chichicastenango is home to one of the most famous markets in Central America. Its residents are also famous for their adherence to Mayan beliefs and culture, and the ceremonies are often intertwined with contemporary Christian practices.

For decades, villagers have walked many miles to sell their wares at the weekly markets. On Sundays and Thursdays, they spread their crafts, food and other merchandise in the central plaza and sell to residents and tourists from dawn until about 3:00 p.m.

The abundance of traditional textiles, ceramics and other tipica often make time seem to stand still in Chichi on market days. However, modern technology, such as young girls talking on cell phones, remind us that it is, in fact, 2010!

Reserva Natural Atitlan

The frenetic market town, Panajachel, can sometimes make travellers forget about the natural beauty of Guatemala.

The Reserva Natural Atitlan is a coffee farm that is nowprotected as a nature preserve.

It features hiking trails, zip lines high above the trees for the more adventurous, tropical vegetation, and local wildlife such as tropical birds, coati (similar to North American raccoons) and spider monkeys.

It also produces the BEST coffee in the world! It's a must-see for visitors to Guatemala.

Volcanic Beauty

Lago de Atitlan was formed 85,000 years ago by a volcanic eruption that created a huge crater that filled with water. A number of smaller volcanoes roese out of the lake waters, and now Lago de Atitlan is surrounded by volcanoes that occasionally rumble and spew ash. Here is a panoramic shot of three of the volcanoes as seen from my balcony at Hotel Atitlan.

Paradise just outside of Panajachel

Lago de Atitlan, in the Guatemalan Highlands, is a dramatically beautiful place. The lake is surrounded by volcanoes and small Mayan villages filled with traditional culture. The town of Panajachel is a bustling market town, full of merchants and tourists buying and selling tipica, traditional Mayan crafts. There is always a frenzy of activity in Pana, so the town itself can be very tiring,

Just outside of Pana is the gorgeous Hotel Atitlan, with lush gardens and n aviary filled with tropical birds. It’s a peaceful refuge from the hustle and bustle of the market. And it’s the perfect place to enjoy a late afternoon trago of Flor de Caña rum with friends!

Tuctuc Ride in Antigua

Tuctucs, the motorcycle powered rickshaws, arevery common in Guatemala. In Antigua and other colonial cities with old cobblestone streets, the tuctuc ride can be very much like a full body dry heave. Check it out:

It gets you where you need to be!

Sunday in Antigua

Today in Antigua, Lenten observances continued with a procession through the streets, during which men and boys dressed in purple robes carry the cross. Figurines of the processors, called cucarachas, are sold in the markets and stores to mark the season, much like the figurines of the holy family, shepherds and wise men that are sold at Christmas. The procession entered Antigua about 11:00 a.m. and spent the entire day walking the streets, arriving in the Parque Central about 7:30 p.m.

While waiting for the procession, we watched a Mayan Celebration of the Four Points in the Parque Central with a marimba band, ribbons, flowers and dancing. Four points celebrates the Mayan union of the cross of Jesus Christ with the four points of Mayan life - sun, moon, earth and people.

The procession arrived in a cloud if incense, with hundreds of people following the Andaria with Christ carrying the cross. The processions will continue every Sunday though Lent, and then daily during Semana Santa or Holy Week. It’s a privilege to witness this beautiful tradition.

¡Hola de Guatemala!

After digging my way out of the northeast snowstorm, and wrangling with the airlines over cancelled flights, I’m finally in Guatemala. Susan Leffler and I are sitting on our balcony of the Hotel Casa de las Fuentes, enjoying tragos of Flor de Cañ a rum and watching the sun set over Antigua Guatemala.

The hotel is beautiful, just a few blocks from the main square of downtown Antigua, owned by a lovely woman named Estella, who has been hosting us in Antigua since I first visited here in the early 90s. The rooms have gorgeous tile floors, large windows and - just recently - television sets! Hotel Casa de las Fuentes (House of the Fountains) is built around several gardens full of tropical plants and birds. Unfortunately the fountain is not running.

After getting settled, we spent a little time in the Parque Central (main square) shopping and people-watching. It’s very interesting to see the local observations of the season of Lent, which began on Ash Wednesday, February 17th. Balconies of public buildings are draped with purple cloth, and many establishment display a Lenten Cuarisma, similar to the way that American establishments display manger scenes at Christmas.

We hope to meet up with an American friend who lives here in Antigua for dinner a bit later this evening, and tomorrow will be a quiet day in town shopping, eating and people watching. Hasta mañana!

Winter Vacation 2010

This year I’m staying a little closer to home (than Australia) for my annual winter pilgrimage to warmer climes. My friend Susan and I are traveling to Guatemala for some R&R. Actually, thanks to the winter storm that hit the northeast last night and this morning, Susan is in Guatemala and I’m still traveling.

I was awakened in the middle of the night by a text message letting me know that my flight had been cancelled. I spent the next three hours wrangling with Delta Airlines to get the flights rebooked. They just couldn’t seem to understand why I didn’t want to wait a week to fly to Guatemala City. But I was able book a flight that is only 12 hours later than my original departure.

I had to do some digging out, particularly after the city plows created a mountain in front of my driveway. But I’m finally at the airport, watching the snow continue to fall, waiting to board a flight that still registers as “on time.” Maybe I will actually be in Guate by tomorrow!

Recital in Albuquerque

My goddaughter Linnea gave a fabulous recital in Albuquerque this past weekend. Check out the Rondo from Mozart's Oboe Quartet.

Happy New Year!

Welcome to 2010... is this the last year of the old decade, or the first day of the new decade? I do know that this is the Eighth Day of Christmas.

The Twelve Days of Christmas are the twelve days from Christmas until the beginning of Epiphany (December 25 through January 5). Twelfth Night is January 5th, the last day of the Christmas Season before Epiphany, January 6th.

The song “The Twelve Days of Christmas” is thought to be a song of Christian instruction, dating from the 16th century religious wars in England, with hidden references to the basic teachings of the Christian Faith. “My True Love” is not an earthly suitor, but God Himself.

The Partridge in a Pear Tree is Jesus the Christ; Two Turtledoves are the Old and New Testaments; Three French Hens are the Three Theological Virtues: Faith, Hope and Love; Four Calling Birds are the Four Gospels; Five Gold Rings are the first Five Books of the Old Testament; Six Geese a-Laying are the six days of creation; Seven Swans a-Swimming are the seven gifts of the Holy Spirit (prophecy, ministry, teaching, exhortation, giving, leading, and compassion); Eight Maids a-Milking are the eight Beatitudes; Nine Ladies Dancing are the nine Fruit of the Holy Spirit: (love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, generosity, faithfulness, gentleness, and self-control); Ten Lords a-Leaping are the ten commandments; Eleven Pipers Piping are the eleven Faithful Apostles; Twelve Drummers Drumming are the twelve points of doctrine in the Apostles’ Creed.

To celebrate the Eighth Day of Christmas, here is Franz Biebl’s Ave Maria, from our Christmas Eve Lessons and Carols Service at Third Presbyterian Church.

Happy New Year!